Experimenting with at-home skin care treatments can be fun — and will definitely save you some money — but it’s important to ensure you take all the necessary precautions to avoid any mishaps. When it comes to chemical peels, it’s especially critical to know exactly what you’re doing each step of the way. They are great for resurfacing a soft, smooth complexion but can also lead to extra-sensitive skin. Any mask or peel that involves leaving intensely exfoliating ingredients on your skin for an extended period of time should be treated with care, so we asked dermatologists for their tips on safely doing these treatments at home.
What is a chemical peel?
“Chemical peels are great for exfoliating the skin and smoothing its texture by removing the top dead skin layer (in the upper part of the epidermis),” says Dr. Kseniya Kobets, board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care.
At-home chemical peels contain exfoliating ingredients that help shed that dead skin. These chemical exfoliants include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs, such as salicylic acid). These are found in lots of skin care products, often at gentle levels that make them safe for everyday use. With at-home peels, they’re delivered in greater concentrations for faster results.
“A peel allows the [skin to appear with] more even tone while also degreasing the skin by penetrating the pores and shrinking them and offering additional benefits of calming inflammation and decreasing blackheads and acne,” Kobets says. “Not to mention the added benefits of collagen stimulation over time, which is more evident with deeper peels.”
What are the benefits of a chemical peel?
Depending on the intensity of the peel and how your skin reacts to it, Graf says that users can expect to see results like improved skin texture, a reduced appearance in both wrinkles and age spots, and reduced hyperpigmentation. Kobets notes that users may even notice results immediately, “but this is only because the top of the skin absorbed the peel and started to tighten.” The real results, she says, start to appear after three to four weeks, when the skin cycle has turned over and new skin is revealed.
Can chemical peels be done on all skin types?
Depending on your skin type and personal comfort level, at-home facial peels might be a little too risky for you. Although most at-home facial peels are generally safe for all skin types,?Dr. Jeannette Graf,board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, says, “Those with darker skin tones have a higher risk of developing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation should any irritation occur. It is also important to check with your dermatologist, especially if you have sensitive skin or skin conditions such as rosacea.”
Kobets echoes a similar sentiment when it comes to the effectiveness of chemical peels. “It seems to benefit those with acne-prone or oily skin, but also those with pigmentation and texture issues,” she says. “Also, those with sensitive skin issues like melasma would benefit from a peel better than some lasers.”
How to do a chemical peel at home
In terms of general precautions to take when doing an at-home facial peel, the dermatologists recommend the following.
- Patch test before use. “One night, use [the peel] on your lateral cheek, just so that you know you won’t have a reaction,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Nazanin Saedi.?“Then the next night you can use it on your entire face.” Anyone with broken or compromised skin should wait until their condition is healed before doing a peel. “This is because when the skin barrier is compromised in eczema, psoriasis or just irritated, burning skin, the healing process is disturbed and can cause skin rashes and even hyperpigmentation with added inflammation and delayed healing,” Kobets says.
- Avoid overexfoliating or using an abrasive exfoliant. “If you are using topical serums with retinoids and hydroxy acids, your skin may be extra sensitive to chemical peels which may result in burning and skin rashes,” Kobets says.
- Avoid sun exposure. “[Peels] make the skin less protected from the damages of the sun and visible light indoors,” Kobets says. “Thus, do not schedule any sunny vacations one month before and one month after even a light chemical peel.”
- Use sunscreen. To follow Kobets’ note above, using sunscreen after a peel is essential to protecting your skin.
- Follow the instructions carefully. This is obvious, but you should only use a chemical peel as directed. Since they are strong treatments, they should not be used in place of daily exfoliating products. “My biggest caution is not to use these products every day. If you overuse them, they can cause irritation and sensitivity,” Saedi says.
For the best results, you’ll also want to be mindful when it comes to your post-peel skin care routine. Kobets recommends a very gentle regimen for one week after, like a fragrance-free cleanser and moisturizer, both with ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
Best at-home chemical peels
“For first-time peelers, I would recommend starting with a peel that has fewer exfoliating ingredients like the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel or the SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Exfoliating Peel Pads,” says Kobets says.
Associate fashion and beauty editor Sophie Shaw is a longtime user of the Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel wipes and says they are super quick and easy to add to a skin care regimen. She recommends using them just one or two nights per week or in a skin cycling routine.
These peel pads, recommended by Saedi, are a more affordable option and work in a similar way to the Dr. Dennis Gross peel pads. “It helps get rid of the dead skin cells on the skin’s surface and helps increase the penetration of other topicals you are using,” Saedi says.
“This is a very affordable option and good for acne-prone skin,” Saedi says of this affordable pick. “It consists of glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and salicylic acid.”
“This mask contains a powerful blend of glycolic and salicylic acid that exfoliate the skin, as well as papaya extract that works to dissolve dead skin cells,” Graf says. “These ingredients leave skin looking more radiant and [the] texture is smoother.”
“This is a good product for all skin types and will help improve skin texture, as it has a blend of AHAs and BHAs to gently exfoliate the skin while leaving a youthful and radiant look,” Graf says.
Shaw is also a fan but recommends starting off with a shorter treatment time — three to five minutes — for the first couple of uses since you’ll feel the tingly, prickly feeling of this product at work.
Graf also recommends this 20-minute mask from Charlotte Tilbury. “This mask contains a combination of 15% AHA, BHA, PHA and prickly pear cactus to leave skin exfoliated, brightened and more radiant over time,” the dermatologist says.?
If you really want to create a facial-like experience at home, Shaw recommends celebrity aesthetician Shani Darden’s peel system, which comes complete with an application brush. The two-step treatment includes a potent glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid peel, followed by a kaolin clay neutralizing mask that is applied directly on top of the peel. You'll definitely feel some tingling, so listen to your skin and don’t overdo it. Once you rinse it off, your skin will be noticeably softer.
“This product will help remove dead skin cells from the face and brighten dull skin as it has lactic acid to exfoliate and botanical extracts to leave you with more radiant skin,” Graf says. It can be used as a leave-on treatment as your skin tolerates it, or you can use it like a mask and rinse it off after 15 minutes.
Another peel-pad recommendation from Saedi, “this product contains three AHAs including lactic acid, citric acid and glycolic acid. These AHAs are able to remove superficial dead skin cells and will help reduce the appearance of fine lines,” she says. With these, she advises using them just once or twice a week. And unlike the other peel pads, you're supposed to rinse off the treatment after 10 minutes.
