Like it or not, your skin changes as you age — but how do you know when you’ve reached the point of needing anti-aging skin care? Or when to start using products meant for mature skin? According to dermatologists and estheticians, you can expect to see a noticeable difference around the age of 40 — which is why I consulted five of these skin experts who are 40+ themselves, getting their top tips for transitioning (and maintaining) an effective skin care regimen.
“Collagen production drops more dramatically beginning in your early 40s, which is when many of my patients notice their first signs of sagging skin and fine lines,” shares Dr. Nazanin?Saedi, a board-certified dermatologist and clinical associate professor at Thomas Jefferson University.?“Expression lines such as forehead lines, frown lines and crow’s feet are usually the first to appear.”
The rate your skin changes is determined by a lot of factors, some genetic and some external, so Amy Peterson, medical aesthetician and founder of?Skincare by Amy Peterson?medspa in Miami, recommends taking preventative steps as early as your 30s.
“Skin can change due to external factors like hormones, stress, environment and lifestyle, so it’s important to adjust your routine accordingly and not stay so set in your ways,” she says. Saedi agrees, adding, “Some people think that the skin type they have in their 20s is the skin type they have for life. This is not true. Your skin type can change as you get older as hormones change and sebum production slows.”
So whether you’re starting to see some changes or have already entered a new phase, the experts are here to share five important tips that will actually make a difference in keeping your skin looking and feeling young and healthy.
Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate!
“Mature skin often becomes drier, so using a good moisturizer is essential,” Petersen says. Besides dryness, keeping skin hydrated is one of the first lines of defense against fine lines and wrinkles too. “Incorporating products and ingredients that help drench the skin with hydration will help plump the skin and reduce the appearance of lines,” Saedi explains. She says to look for moisturizers with peptides, vitamin C, niacinamide, snail mucin and growth factors.
Those approaching menopause will especially want to examine whether their current routine is providing enough hydration — Saedi says the hormonal changes of perimenopause and menopause trigger changes in the skin. “When hormone levels lessen, the skin will feel and appear noticeably drier and duller,” she notes. So, the dermatologist says to opt for products that support the skin barrier — “A healthy skin barrier will help the skin stay moisturized longer. Moisturizers with ceramides will help reinforce and repair the skin barrier.”
"Vanicream Moisturizing Cream is a thick, nourishing moisturizer for dry, thirsty skin," Saedi says.?"It’s thick but won’t clog your pores.?It does not feel greasy, absorbs quickly and is formulated for the most sensitive of skin types. It’s a great choice for dry, sensitive skin and will help seal in any treatments or serums that come before it."
Petersen says to look for a moisturizer that "will soothe and moisturize the skin barrier while simultaneously?stimulating collagen production." She and celebrity facialist Vee Mistry recommend the cult-favorite Rich Cream from Augustinus Bader, which is beloved by dermatologits, estheticians and celebrities. It contains the patented TFC8, which is backed by over 30 years of clinical study and aims to support healthy aging at a cellular level. "It works beautifully in all climates, and I absolutely adore it," Mistry says.
This bestselling moisturizer from Tammy Fender's eponymous skin care line is packed with botanical ingredients that nourish the skin. It even trades plain water (which is often the first ingredient in a moisturizer) with rose water and marigold flower waters to add in extra nutrients. You'll also spot herbal remedies in the ingredients list, including helichrysum, white lily and lotus to further calm and heal the skin.
Add retinol to your routine
Celebrity facialist Shani Darden, who turned 50 this year, says that anyone over 40 should consider adding retinol to their skin care routine. “Retinol is the most effective anti-aging ingredient and one of my absolute favorite ingredients for glowing, youthful skin,” she explains. “Retinol works at the cellular level to address so many different issues from fine lines and wrinkles to dark spots and uneven tone. It’s such an incredible multi-tasker. Retinol not only helps decrease the signs of aging but can also help reverse the signs of aging.”
"I created my Retinol Reform to have a gentle, yet potent formula, that delivers a steady stream of encapsulated retinol throughout the night to minimize the irritation of ordinary retinol," Darden shares. It's one of my personal favorite retinol formulas that I recommend for those new to the active ingredient — like Darden said, it has an effective formula that doesn't irritate the skin like other retinols.
This dermatologist-recommended gel utilizes adapalene, a gentle retinoid, that's great for mature skin. It was formerly prescription-only, but is now available over-the-counter, so you're getting a clinical-level product at an affordable price point. It'll also help get breakouts under control for oily and acne-prone skin types.
Saedi recommends this product, which she says is specifically formulated for estrogen deficient skin and is ideal for women in perimenopause or menopause. It's made with snail mucin, a trendy K-beauty ingredient, as well as retinol, niacinamide and peptides to boost collagen production. "My mother swears by the Empelle Night Cream," Saedi adds. "She says it’s the only moisturizer that keeps her skin hydrated after menopause!"
Don’t skip the SPF
“If you’ve spent too many hours in the sun without sufficient sun protection, you may experience the first signs of aging skin earlier,” Saedi warns. “Repeated sun damage in your teens and 20s can show up as hyperpigmentation, lines and wrinkles as early as your 30s.”
Peterson also emphasizes the importance of wearing sunscreen daily, even on cloudy days. “If you haven’t started before your 40s, start this asap,” she says.
“Remember, it’s not just a sun burn that damages the skin, tanned skin is a sign of sun damage too,” Saedi adds.
"This morning moisturizer checks so many boxes," raves Saedi. "It’s tinted to provide light coverage, which I love on days that I’m not wearing makeup. And it’s a great primer on the days that I am wearing makeup! It’s filled with ceramides, peptides, niacinamide and SPF —which all have great anti-aging effects."
Since you should wear sunscreen every day, it's important to find one that you'll love. Peterson's go-to is this tinted formula from Alastin, which she says blends well.
Underscored editor Tobey Grumet Segal says she doesn't leave home without applying this light, tinted sunscreen. It's an oil-free, hybrid chemical and mineral sunscreen, with zinc oxide and octinoxate UV filters.
Less is more
While it can be easy to get caught up in the excitement of viral products and new launches, the experts agree that simplicity and consistency is key in a skin care routine.
“Skin renews itself over the course of 28 days, a cycle which becomes slower as we age,” says?Tammy Fender, holistic aesthetician and founder of?Tammy Fender?skin care and spa. “So, it’s never about pushing aging skin, which can even cause damage in the long run.” She promotes a “lifestyle-based, holistic approach” to skin health, which means prioritizing sleep, a healthy diet, physical activity and reducing stress, alongside a gentle skin care routine.
If you have specific skin concerns that you want to address (pigmentation, sagging skin, dry skin, etc.), Peterson recommends finding a trusted expert that has an aesthetic approach that matches yours, so you can develop a plan of action to best address your skin goals.
For those just building a solutions-based routine, Peterson says that pigmentation is a good place to start. “Almost anyone in this age category who has never done anything is going to have pigmentation to some degree caused by sun damage. It’s something you’re able to measure and see change quickly with the right topical skincare coupled with effective in office treatments.?It will give you results and boost confidence so you can start tackling other areas of concern.”
You can still have a simple routine that includes active ingredients — you just don’t want to slather on any product labeled as “anti-aging” without a plan of action. Darden, for example, says her routine has been more or less been the same for years. She keeps her daytime routine simple and adds in a treatment product — like an exfoliator or retinol —?at night. And if you prefer to steer clear of potentially irritating ingredients, that’s fine too. Mistry uses retinol sparingly (every few months), and exfoliates even less. Instead, her method is rooted in protecting the skin from sun damage and pigmentation, coupled with daily facial massage to lift and tighten.
Whichever approach you choose, staying consistent is crucial to seeing results.
Cleansing is an essential step that you should do at least once a day. "This is a diehard favorite of mine," Mistry says. "It contains nine essential oils and provides a spa-like experience. It cleanses the skin without stripping it and can be used as a makeup remover, a morning cleanser or even as a mask once a week for 10-15 minutes." If you want to do as the pros do, the facialist also says to wash your face with cold water when you cleanse.
"This is one of my favorite treatment masks to plump, hydrate and brighten the skin," Darden says. The award-winning sheet masks deliver a boost of hyaluronic acid, marine collagen and seaweed extract to hydrate and refresh the complexion. They're a great addition to a skin cycling routine, as they will provide a rest from the potent active ingredients found in Darden's other treatment steps, like her Triple Acid Signature Peel or Retinol Reform.
A derm-approved serum that will help target dark spots, this formula contains vitamin C, niacinamide and bakuchiol to not only address pigmentation but also tackle signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles. It's a one-step addition to your routine that reaps multiple benefits.
Don’t be afraid of beauty tools
From red light masks to microcurrent devices, investing in some beauty tech can be well worth it in the long run — especially if your goal is to lift and firm your skin. No longer only for the spa or derm’s office, these exeprt-approved treatments deliver noticeable results with consistent at-home use. Consider them a high-maintenance step that’ll help you stay low maintenance for years to come (Petersen says it’s a myth that a surgical facelift is the only option for reversing signs of aging).
“In 2024, there are so many amazing non-invasive devices and lasers on the market that can turn back the clock on aging and make you look and feel your best,” Peterson says. “I love having a yearly maintenance plan of devices and lasers?and a solid at-home care routine that I rotate,” she notes of her own routine.
Underscored editors love cryo tools, and these luxe ones created by Mistry are optimally contoured to combine cryotherapy with lymphatic drainage (or gua sha) so they have all the benefits — cooling, calming, lifting and sculpting — of both techniques in one.
Mistry uses the professional version (which has higher amps) with her clients, and recommends the Trinity+ for at-home use. "With NuFace, more is always better, and it’s fantastic for lifting and firming the skin," she says.
Since collagen levels decrease as you get older, a red light mask is a valuable tool for combatting the associated signs of aging. Red light therapy helps increase cellular function and stimulate collagen production, resulting in younger-looking skin. This mask is a dermatologist-approved pick that has customizable settings and a quick three-minute treatment time.
