Whether it’s a pattern of breakouts returning despite intentionally incorporating an acne-focused cleanser or consistently targeting stubborn hyperpigmentation regardless of the vitamin C serum you’ve been using, it’s all too common for products within your skin care routine to seemingly stop working. There are a multitude of reasons why certain products may no longer be achieving their expected outcome, and it usually takes some time to notice that you aren’t experiencing the results that you had hoped for.
So, why does this happen, and what should you do when you realize that your current skin care isn’t cutting it? Read on for some expert recommendations on the best course of action if you notice that you need to make a change within your beauty regimen.
How do you know when your skin care routine is no longer effective?
If you’ve noticed a plateau or regression in the overall functionality of your skin care regimen, this could be due to a number of factors. “If products are no longer effective, your skin may have developed tolerance to the active ingredients and it may be time to increase the concentration of actives or give skin a break from your current routine and change it up in favor of something else,” says Dr. Rebecca Marcus, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Maei MD.
Taking an objective, birds-eye-view approach in analyzing how your skin is behaving can help identify the underlying issue. Dr. Julie Russak, board-certified dermatologist, recommends asking yourself a couple of questions:
- What are the major changes your skin has undergone, if any?
- Are you utilizing the products correctly?
- Are the products expired?
- Are you allergic to any of the ingredients?
“Similar to how performing the same exercise repeatedly may not yield the desired results, your skin can become accustomed to a specific skin care regimen,” she notes.
Red and sensitive skin could indicate a compromised skin barrier in need of repair. Your skin microbiome could also be imbalanced and in need of support. Dull and sensitive skin is a huge indicator that your skin is displaying suboptimal cellular regeneration and asking for essential hydration and moisture. If you’re consistently breaking out, this could suggest inflammation within your skin or body overall, leading to the manifestation of acne or blemishes.
How to reset your skin care routine
The consensus is clear, rebalancing your skin barrier is the utmost priority when adjusting your products for maximum effectiveness. Dr. Tiffany Libby, double board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon suggests using “a gentle, hydrating cleanser followed by ingredients that support, restore and nourish the skin barrier like glycerin, ceramides and allantoin. Lay off the actives until the skin has normalized and no longer is red, dry or irritated.”
Libby also emphasizes regularly checking in and listening to your skin. “Your skin care routine may be fine, but you may need to enhance it, possibly by adding a different active or increasing or decreasing the frequency of use,” she explains.
“If deciding to introduce new products, do it one at a time so that if it causes irritation, you will know which is the culprit and can discontinue,” Libby says.? She recommends slowly introducing active ingredients into your routine, especially if you are particularly prone to sensitivity. “Do a test spot on the inner aspect of your arm or on your neck to see how skin will react before applying it to your entire face.”
Then, once you have adjusted your routine, stick with it. “Consistency is key, so when you’re in the groove with a given product, make sure to use it nightly, or in some cases every other day/night, as long as it continues working for you,” Marcus advises.
Below, the experts share some of their favorite effective products for different skin concerns and regimens.
For acne-prone skin
Time and time again, the hero ingredient when it comes to addressing immediate acne concerns is benzoyl peroxide, specifically when it comes to killing bacteria. Libby notes that “if benzoyl peroxide is too irritating, try it as a cleanser formulation and apply it using the short-contact technique — lather up [on your face] for a few minutes before rinsing off.” She recommends PanOxyl Acne Creamy Wash, which contains several hydrating ingredients to balance out the potentially irritating effects of benzoyl peroxide.
Although we tend to attack breakouts aggressively in full force, the key here is to incorporate gentle products that still get the job done. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick recommends Tammy Fender Clarifying Dermagel and describes it as “an innovative, lightweight gel to help treat the blemish-prone complexion naturally, with herbal remedies known for their antiseptic properties, including thyme, tea tree and myrrh, as well as hydrating aloe to help maintain balance.”
A TikTok favorite, the CeraVe Acne Control Cleanser is formulated with niacinamide and ceramides, which won’t leave the skin feeling dry or irritated. Garshick explains that “this acne wash contains 2% salicylic acid to help reduce breakouts and gently exfoliate the skin in addition to oil-absorbing hectorite clay to reduce clogged pores.”
For hyperpigmentation
There’s a magic combination of ingredients that tends to be most effective when it comes to addressing hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Libby says that “the gold standard is using a triple-skin lightening cream that contains hydroquinone, a corticosteroid and a retinoid.” However, these are prescription-only and can be irritating for people, so consumers can instead look for chemical exfoliants in their beauty aisle. Libby says this option “uses a combination of glycolic, salicylic and lactic acids to visibly brighten skin and has been tested to be safe for sensitive skin. It also has hyaluronic acid to hydrate skin and centella asiatica extract to calm, soothe and restore the skin’s barrier.”
According to Garshick, tranexamic acid, niacinimide and licorice root extract are a winning concoction of ingredients in the YSE Beauty Problem Solver to even skin tone.
If you have sensitive skin and don’t normally tolerate vitamin C products, opt for the Vanicream Vitamin C serum, which Garshick notes would be a “helpful addition to a routine targeting dark spots.”
For melasma
Addressing the overactive melanocytes in your skin can be particularly tedious and frustrating. Libby recommends this serum, which uses niacinamide and tranexamic acid to address pigment and hydrates skin with glycerin.
For everyday usage, Garshick suggests opting for the Vichy LiftActiv B3 Serum that “can be used one to two times daily to help address discoloration and melasma.”
For dry skin
If you feel like you need to wrap your skin in a blanket of hydration, the Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream is for you. This cream boosts moisture and improves the overall radiance of the skin, which offers both immediate and long-term improvements. It also contains plumping factors like hyaluronic acid, peptides and vitamins C and E, which will also help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Garshick says she “especially love[s] using it prior to makeup application to give the skin a hydration boost.”
The Skinceuticals Triple Lipid moisturizer contains a patented ratio of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, which are natural components of the skin barrier. “By restoring these fatty molecules, the barrier is not only improved but the skin now appears more hydrated and smooth,” Garshick explains, adding that “it is a great moisturizer for those also using retinol, as it does a great job keeping the skin moisturized, enabling people to better tolerate their retinoid.”
For oily skin
For oily and sensitive skin types, try Cetaphil’s Gentle Clear Mattifying Acne Moisturizer, which is a lightweight moisturizer that contains 2% salicylic acid to clear breakouts. The pairing with bisabolol to soothe skin and kojic acid to lighten discoloration is what makes it one of Libby’s favorite choices.
In order not to clog pores or leave your skin looking greasy, Garshick recommends this mattifying moisturizer, which has a gel consistency and is packed with oil-controlling niacinamide and hydrating glycerin.
To get SPF coverage, opt for the Supergoop! Mineral Mattescreen. Garshick says that the mineral sunscreen “is a great option for those with oily skin as it leaves a matte finish while still protecting the skin.”
For fine lines and wrinkles
This serum combines fruit stem cell complex and antioxidants with bakuchiol, a retinol alternative that is safe for sensitive skin. Garshick says that the serum “works to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while also smoothing the skin. Because it is gentle on the skin, it can be used one to two times per day and by all skin types.”
If you’re looking for a boost of retinol, the BeautyPie Youthbomb Double-Retinol Action Skin Overhaul Serum is just what you need. It “combines a retinol and retinoid complex, including niacinamide, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid and concentrated ceramides, helping to boost collagen production and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” according to Garshick.
For dullness
To improve overall skin tone and texture, Garshick suggests the easy-to-use Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Exfoliating Peel Pads. “These exfoliating peel pads contain a combination of three key hydroxy acids, including lactic acid, salicylic acid and glycolic acid, in combination with AlphaRet, a proprietary retinoid,” she says.
Marcus adds that “regular, gentle exfoliation to remove dull, dead skin cells from the skin’s surface can help to prime the skin for optimal absorption of products,” so not only will they help keep skin smooth but help your other skin care sink in too.
Did you know that there are different types of vitamin C? The KaramMD Quench serum combines three of them — magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate — to help decrease skin discoloration and hyperpigmentation while also brightening the skin. Garshick swears that “this makes it a great vitamin C [serum] to help address dullness.”
