Your gear will be illegal soon — but PFAS-free apparel and shoes are here

When we go hiking or skiing, we’re reliant upon our gear to protect us from the big, bad elements Mother Nature throws our way. And up until recently, a large component of these bombproof protections were some very toxic chemicals known as PFAS, or forever chemicals. Your favorite rain jacket, your trusty ski kit, your impermeable backpacking tent — it doesn’t matter. They’re all likely swimming in PFAS.

“PFAS, or per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, are a group of chemicals initially developed in the 1930s,” says Kyle Postmus, the global senior manager at the NSF. “Their popularity came from their nonstick, heat-resistant and waterproofing abilities, gaining traction in industries that manufacture clothing, cookware, firefighting foams, housing materials and more.”

People quickly realized PFAS are good at what they do, so they slapped ’em on everything. In the outdoor industry, PFAS have been our go-to waterproof chemicals for apparel and equipment, but they also can be found in everything from makeup and tampons to stain-resistant carpet and pizza boxes.

But not for long. Beginning in 2025, California is banning PFAS in all textiles. According to Safer States, a national alliance of environmental health organizations, at least 36 states are considering more than 450 bills on toxic chemical-related policies, suggesting that even more forever chemical bans are on the way. Beginning in the fall of 2024, outdoor retailer REI Co-op will only sell cookware and many textile products (like clothes, footwear and backpacks) that have no PFAS.

It’s clear that we’re moving away from PFAS on a global scale. But why?

What is the problem with PFAS?

At this point, we’re literally wading through PFAS. According to Dr. Carrie McDonough, an assistant professor of chemistry at Carnegie Mellon University, carbon-fluorine has an especially strong bond. “For the most part, they don’t break down on a geologic time scale,” she says, noting that they can theoretically stick around forever — hence the nickname.

But this persistence is exactly what poses a problem for us, especially when we don’t fully understand how these compounds interact with living things. University of Rochester researcher Donald Taves first discovered a second type of fluoride in his own blood in 1968, which was our first inkling that there was a problem. But we didn’t realize the enormity of the situation for decades. McDonough explains that perfluoroalkyl acids are anions, which are different from most commonly studied pollutants that we often hear about. This means water treatment facilities are equipped to remove other pollutants from our water but not PFAS.

“They can basically hijack the water cycle and move with the groundwater,” McDonough says. “They’re much more mobile in water and less likely to be removed by simple filtration water treatment processes.”

This is problematic because our groundwater supplies our public’s drinking water. And according to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention, we’ve all got a bit of PFAS floating around inside us. It’s gross and also potentially scary. Postmus notes that PFAS have been linked to kidney disease, cancer, immune disruption and reproductive harm — to name a few. And the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is now calling some of these compounds likely carcinogenic to humans.

PFAS are so pervasive, in fact, that recent data shows popular hiking areas covered in the compounds. A 2021 study showed an accumulation of PFAS on the top of the world: Chomolungma, or Mount Everest. The report indicates that gear left behind on the big mountain — food packaging, fixed ropes and old tents — was the likely cause.

What this means for your outdoor gear

That’s not great news, and it’s easy to understand why outdoor brands and policies alike are moving away from these forever chemicals. But PFAS are really good at what they do. Does this mean our future outdoor adventures will come with a side of saturated and soaking wet?

Fortunately, no. This is a problem that many outdoor brands like Keen, Kari Traa, Picture Organic, Patagonia, Deuter, Jack Wolfskin and Fjallraven saw coming for years. Keen has been PFAS-free since 2018 and Jack Wolfskin began its phaseout in 2012, with plans to be PFAS-free by 2025.

In reality, finding alternatives for waterproofing alone hasn’t been too difficult. Case in point: Nikwax, a company that makes at-home waterproofing and cleaning solutions for your gear, has never once used PFAS since its inception in 1977. “We created our own means of producing water repellency without PFAS,” says Heidi Allen, the vice president of marketing. But there are other benefits of PFAS aside from water repellency.

Nordic brand Kari Traa completed its phaseout of PFAS in 2013 after reading the research about the adverse effects of forever chemicals. But it wasn’t easy. “There are limitations,” says Rebecca Johannson, ESG (environmental, social and corporate governance) and fabrics manager at Kari Traa. “Maintaining smooth repulsion with water … is achievable, but dealing with oil … poses more difficulties.”

Kaytlin Moeller is the regional sustainability manager at Fenix Outdoor North America, the parent company to Fjallraven, Hanwag and Royal Robbins. According to Moeller, phasing out PFAS isn’t as easy as it looks since there are so many proverbial cooks in the kitchen. “Cross-contamination during manufacturing is a huge challenge,” she says. “There is always a risk that a product made without PFAS could come into contact with contaminated machinery, groundwater or other PFAS-treated products.”

Ultimately, taking good care of your gear is going to be the best way forward. “Proper care will not only improve the performance and functionality of the garment but it will also extend a product’s lifespan and reduce its overall environmental impact,” says Sandy Flint, senior materials manager for Stio.

And according to Tae Hillyer, the owner of gear repair store San Juan Sewing, the best way to do that is Nikwax. “Use water-based waterproofing products like Nikwax,” he says. “They are PFAS-free and sell product at most outdoor gear shops.”

Best PFAS-free clothes and shoes

That’s a lot of heavy news but not all is lost. Postmus explains that the NSF first started certifying drinking water treatment products for the reduction of PFAS in 2017. And, if finalized, the EPA has proposed a rule that will establish legally enforceable limits on certain PFAS in drinking water. It’s a start.

But cutting PFAS out of the supply chain moving forward is one of the best things we can do, so these upcoming statewide regulations are a positive shift. And fortunately, there are many PFAS-free alternatives already on the market. If you’re in search of outdoor gear but want to minimize your impact, consider any of the PFAS-free products below.