Rock climbing quick picks
Climbing shoes: La Sportiva Tarantulace Climbing Shoes
Chalk and chalk bag: Rúngne Magdust Climbing Chalk
Harness: Black Diamond Momentum Harness
Belay device: Black Diamond Big Air ATC-XP Belay Device Package
Rock climbing has gained popularity over the past few years, and whether you watched “Free Solo” or the Paris Olympics, you might be wondering how to start rock climbing. Getting into the sport is easier than you think, with gyms and outdoor areas available across the country. But to ensure you get off on the right foot, we talked to mountain guides, gym instructors, professional climbers and more to see what you actually need.
We also tested various gear, including climbing shoes, chalk, harnesses and all the other essentials you need for your first time climbing. CNN Underscored editor Kai Burkhardt has been climbing for seven years and has worked at multiple climbing gyms, while associate writer Maxwell Shukuya has bouldered for three years, so we knew exactly how to run each item through its proper paces. Here’s everything we learned from the experts and our own testing.
What is rock climbing and how to get started
At its most basic, rock climbing is what you’d expect. You put on special shoes, dust your hands?with chalk and climb rocks, whether they’re made of plastic, granite or sandstone. “This can translate to short climbs of only a few feet that take mere seconds to long routes that take weeks,” says James Lucas, a decades-long climber and co-author of “Yosemite Bouldering Guidebook.”
Regardless of the type of climb, the goal is to reach some predetermined endpoint. In the gym, that’s either the final hold or the top of the climbing wall. Outside, the finish is less obvious. Sometimes completing a problem might mean climbing on top of a boulder or cliff. Other times you’ll simply reach the final hold of a climb, not unlike the gym.
Even when holds are preset in the gym, the fun is in discovering how to conquer a route. Two climbers could have widely different approaches (aka beta), depending on their strengths, weaknesses and sizes.
Climbs receive a set grade based on their difficulty, regardless of how you tackle them, and just as a runner might try to shave seconds off their mile time, climbers measure progress by pushing higher and higher climbing grades. There are different climbing rating systems for bouldering and rope climbing and even some variations between the US and Europe.
If this sounds like an individual sport, you’d be right. But it doesn’t feel that way. Climbers are constantly sharing beta, encouraging one another and training together. “As long as you approach it with an open mind and maintain a positive and friendly demeanor around other climbers, I do not doubt you’ll experience the same in return,” says Carlo Traversi, a professional climber and owner of The Boulder Field climbing gym in Sacramento, California. “Most people I know have met most of their best friends and significant others through climbing. It tends to be a very supportive and community-focused activity.”
“The climbing community is one of the sport’s greatest strengths,” adds Charlie Schreiber, professional climbing coach and founder of Paradigm Climbing. “Whether you’re in a bustling climbing gym or out at a scenic crag, you’ll find a supportive and enthusiastic group of individuals who share your passion. This camaraderie enhances the experience, making every climb not just a personal challenge but a collective adventure.”
What people get wrong about climbing
If your introduction to climbing was “Free Solo,” you might think that scaling 3,000-foot granite cliffs without a rope is the norm. “The general public imagines climbing as a death-defying experience where you are climbing high above the ground and falls are dangerous or fatal,” Traversi says. But that’s a misconception. “Both climbing gyms and outdoor areas offer a variety of climbing experiences that are all relatively safer than your morning commute,” he adds. Can climbing be dangerous? Of course. But if you take it slow and respect the safety checks, we think you’ll find the risk manageable.
Traversi also resists the idea that you need a certain body type to be a climber, though that myth persists within the climbing community. “While it’s true that weight/size is a factor, it’s important to realize that the human body is pretty incredible at adapting to new activities and stresses,” he says. “By adjusting the angle of the terrain, regardless of your body type and skill level, you can be sure to find a challenge that meets you where you’re at.”
What are the different types of rock climbing?
There are four main types of rock climbing: bouldering, top-rope, lead climbing and traditional — or “trad” — climbing.
Bouldering focuses on short, powerful problems that are low enough to the ground that you can fall onto a pad and don’t need ropes. Top-rope and lead climbing are similar in that both require a rope, but top-roping entails a rope that’s set up through an anchor at the top of the wall, so all you have to do is tie in, have your belay partner setup, then you can climb to the top. In lead climbing, the entire rope starts on the ground with you, meaning you have to clip the rope into protection as you ascend the wall.
Finally, trad climbing is found exclusively outdoors and is similar to lead climbing, but instead of clipping the rope into bolts drilled into the wall, you have to place your own protection in the rock. Trad climbing requires many skills and techniques, so beginners should look into bouldering and top-rope first, then graduate to lead climbing and above.
Bouldering is the most beginner-friendly because it requires minimal gear — just shoes and chalk — and the least technical skills to get started. You can really hop onto a wall in a gym immediately and start figuring it out. If you don’t like the idea of free-falling onto the mats or want to climb up higher, then learning how to top-rope and belay should be your priority.
How to start rock climbing
Start at a gym
Outdoor climbing is epic. But before you gear up to send The Nose on El Cap, you’ll need a lot of practice. Indoor climbing gyms are a great place to start because they’ve been engineered “to be as safe and approachable as possible,” Traversi says.
Jesse Grupper, professional climber with La Sportiva and member of the 2024 Olympic USA climbing team, also thinks gyms are a great place to learn. “Going to a gym allows a climber to get used to climbing movement and the environment in a controlled setting,” Grupper says. “For most climbers, gyms are also the easiest to access, so they’re typically where it’s best to start.”
That’s especially true for indoor bouldering. “With bouldering, no ropes are involved, and when you fall (and you fall a lot!), you land on highly engineered mats that absorb a lot of the force of the impact,” Traversi says. Bouldering is also lighter on gear. Once you have a pair of shoes and chalk, you can start crushing problems.
Top-roping is also an option for newcomers, though the barrier to entry is higher. On top of renting or buying a harness and belay device, you’ll also need to learn how to tie a figure eight knot and belay. That said, these skills aren’t too difficult to master, and climbing gyms offer classes to teach the basics.
Whatever you choose, don’t stress about buying the right gear, says climbing-focused physical therapist Dr. Jason Hooper and his team at the Hooper’s Beta YouTube channel. “The specifics of those things don’t matter when you’re a beginner; a climbing gym membership and some psyche is all you need to get started.”
Focus on technique
When first starting, you might want to start doing all sorts of extra exercises to build up your strength so you can climb harder and harder problems. But for most beginners, just climbing is the key to getting better. “The best way to develop strength and technique in the first six months is to climb more frequently, around three times a week,” says Leana Radzik, instructor at The Spot Climbing Gym. “You build body awareness through experience on the wall.”
While climbing, paying attention to how your body moves is also key. “As you get started, focus more on refining your technique than building your strength,” Schreiber says. “Good footwork, proper body positioning and efficient use of your hands and arms will make climbing not only easier but also more enjoyable. Technique is key to climbing effectively and minimizing strain.”
Take it slow
You’ll make plenty of progress in your first few months of climbing. But that doesn’t mean you should be climbing five days a week or dynoing to pebble-sized holds 60 feet over the Mediterranean.
“Slow and steady wins the race,” says Dr. Steven Low, a physical therapist and V10 boulderer who writes about climbing. “Most people end up doing more than their body can recover from and end up with injuries or nagging injuries.”
Instead, Low recommends climbing two to three times a week to start, with the addition of minimal strength training once or twice per week. “Short and sweet sessions when you stop right around when your performance starts to decrease seem to be the best for consistent improvement while not overly fatiguing someone where they can get a recovery deficit or be put at risk for overuse injuries,” he says.
While taking it slow on your body, you should also be taking it slow on your mind. “I think the biggest mistake people make in climbing early on is that they push themselves mentally too far too soon,” says Hazel Findlay, professional climber with Black Diamond and mindset coach. “Climbing is a psychologically demanding sport, and fear of heights and falling is very in-built for many people … I would urge people to step outside their comfort zones with climbing but not too far. Take it slow; you don’t need to get to the top the first time.”
Ask for help
Rock climbing can be quite safe but only if you know what you’re doing. Whether bouldering or climbing with a rope, it’s important to feel completely comfortable to mitigate as much risk and danger as possible. “As a mountain guide, of course, I encourage people to get out and take some instruction, whether it’s from a mountain guide or an indoor climbing gym, or it could be with friends, but make sure you’re learning the basics,” says Adrian Ballinger, professional climber with Black Diamond and founder of Alpenglow Expeditions. “If you climb on a rope, there is some inherent risk. It can be minimal, but you must understand the basic skills that make it as safe as it can be.”
There are tons of resources to learn the skills you need to comfortably climb, including classes at gyms, outdoor guiding companies, experienced friends or even books and videos on YouTube. But if you’re unsure of what you’re doing, it’s okay to ask for help. It’s much better to take the extra time to properly learn the skills than to have an accident on the wall.
Making the transition outdoors
Nearly all the experts we talked to recommended finding an experienced friend or hiring a mountain guide when transitioning to climbing outside. “It’s best to find an experienced friend to take you out or pay for an instructor,” Findlay says. “Many gyms have clubs and groups that connect their customers with outdoor climbing, so ask around and see what your options are.” Ballinger echoes this and adds to look for mountain guide companies certified by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA).
Because there are so many extra skills and gear involved, climbing with someone more experienced your first few times outside is a great way to (literally) learn the ropes. “Picking and finding a good mentor can be challenging, but it’s essential for learning the sport safely,” Grupper says. “I’d recommend not only trusting the person with more experience than you but also asking how the safety gear works. At the end of the day, there will always be risks involved in the sport, so making sure you understand these risks is essential.”
Rock climbing gear for beginners
It can seem like there are a lot of climbing essentials, but you don’t need to go all out right at the start. “As a beginner, don’t stress about the gear too much because if you’re psyched on the sport and use it a lot, you’re going to wear through it,” says Kevin Capps,?owner and guide at Denver Mountain Guiding. “Make sure whatever you buy [is] from a reputable manufacturer and UIAA rated for strength and durability.”
And remember, if you’re visiting the gym for the first few times, rental gear is a cheap alternative.
Shoes
There’s a famous video of the world’s best sport climber, Adam Ondra, wrapping his foot in plastic so he can squeeze it into a tiny climbing shoe. Don’t do this. Instead, find neutral (aka flat) shoes that are snug but also comfortable. Ideally, they should fit like gloves, with as little dead space as possible in the heels and toe boxes.
Climbing shoes can also stretch as you break them in, so consider downsizing a half size for an optimal fit, especially if they’re made of leather. Oh, and one more (frustrating) thing: Sizing and fit will vary by brand and model, so it’s best to try shoes on in person before settling on a pair.
You’ll also want to save your cash for high-performance models until you’re more advanced. New climbers have poor footwork, which wears down shoes’ rubber faster, Low explains. The following shoes nail the balance between affordability and comfort.
We haven’t encountered better beginner shoes than the Tarantulaces, which we wore for the first year we climbed. They’ve got everything a newcomer needs: stiff midsoles, a neutral shape, forgiving leather uppers and an attractive price. The only downside is that they’ll dye your feet green.
“There is only one high-end quality shoe rubber on the market, and that's Vibram,” Capps says. “Vibram delivers high-quality rubber for trail and running shoes, but they are also leading the way with climbing shoe rubber. My favorite shoe is the TC Pro from La Sportiva, but that's a pretty high-end and high-priced shoe. For an intro shoe that delivers a quality performance with Vibram, I would recommend the Finale from La Sportiva.”?
For a first shoe, Traversi recommends the Black Diamond Momentums for the same reasons. They come with a flat last, moderately stiff midsoles and a low price tag. Plus, they’ve got Velcro closures, which makes them easy to take on and off at the gym.
These new shoes from Scarpa are the brand’s cheapest option, and after wearing them during several sessions at the gym, they have our mark of approval. The uppers are soft and comfortable, but the shoes’ rubber is sticky and stiff to give your toes the support they need while you learn better footwork. And they were comfortable enough to keep on during our entire bouldering session, which is quite a difficult feat when it comes to climbing shoes.?
Our climbing friends love these shoes, and after trying them, we can see why. The combo of laces and leather makes them extra comfy, and they feel particularly well-made and durable. Think of them as a slightly more premium pair of Tarantulaces … except the men's version will dye your feet blue, not green.
“In my opinion, Butora Climbing shoes are the best fitting and performing shoes for any level,” Schreiber says. “They offer many options for beginners, with my favorites being the Endeavors, or for a slightly tighter fit, the lace-up Advance is a dream starter shoe.” We also tested out the Endeavors and liked them, but like many other beginner shoes on this list, they'll dye your feet blue.?
If you’re looking for a more technical indoor-specific shoe, the Veloces are one of our favorites. They’re incredibly soft and flexible and have a decently wide toe box so you can wear them all session long. They feel super sensitive, which makes them perfect for volumes and smearing in the gym.?
Another of our favorites that we tested, La Sportiva’s Mantras are ultra-comfortable slippers with a bit of downturn to help you send those indoor projects. They’re easy to slip on and off, but what makes them special is the brand’s No-Edge technology. No-Edge shoes have rubber that wraps around the shoes in high-friction areas so they don’t get worn down as fast. This added durability makes them an especially sound investment for beginners with less-than-stellar footwork.?
These climbing shoes have a great balance of comfort and performance. Typically, when you think of comfortable shoes, you might think of ultra-soft slippers only good for gym climbing. The Mythos, however, can be worn all day but still have a rigid construction to allow for precise footwork on tiny pebbles both outdoors and in.
Unlike most climbing shoes, the Gomis fit wide feet perfectly, and with their sticky toe patches, they excel at intermediate to advanced bouldering. Yes, they technically aren’t beginner shoes, but we include them for fellow climbers cursed with small ankles and duck feet.
If you’ve worn through your first pair of beginner shoes and want an upgrade to a higher-performance option, consider the Black Diamond Method S, which feature top-end technology for a lower price. We enjoyed wearing these during some bouldering and top-rope sessions, but be warned, they are not very comfortable.?
Chalk and chalk bags
Chalk is used on your hands to keep them dry so it’s easier to hold onto the rock or plastic climbing holds at the gym. Some people are very particular about the kind of chalk they use and how much, while others might not even use it at all. It’s really up to personal preference.
No matter the chalk you use, you’ll have to keep it contained somehow. You could tote around the plastic bag it came in, but if you want to bring chalk up while you’re top-roping or want a more comfortable and stylish bag to keep it in, a chalk bag or bucket is for you.
If you’re not too particular about chalk, you can buy a big bag of this stuff every few months and call it a day. Want to be a real dirtbag? Skip the chalk bucket and use the bag it comes in.
“As far as chalk goes, there is no better quality than FrictionLabs, but as a beginner, the price tag may not be worth it,” Capps says. “As an expert climber, I can't use anything but the best chalk, but for the first five to eight years of my climbing career, I just bought the cheapest stuff the store sold.”?
“Crux Power Climbing Chalk is pure magnesium carbonate with no additives that the other brands use,” Schreiber says. “There are a few other brands who offer pure magnesium carbonate, but they charge an arm and a leg for it. Crux Power is quickly capturing market share as its entire business model is to sell the equivalent, fantastic product for less.”
One of our testers has been a die-hard FrictionLabs user for over five years, but after trying Magdust, he’s been converted. The chalk, created by Magnus Midtbo’s brand Rúngne, keeps your hands incredibly dry and feels great on the skin. It’s truly the best chalk our tester has ever tried.?
Chalk buckets are a boulderer’s best friend. With the Craft Chalk Bucket, Rúngne has perfected its design, including a magnetic seal and roll-down buckle to prevent messy leaks. It’s more expensive than other popular chalk buckets on the market, but its quality is fantastic. We especially liked its soft fleece interior and external pockets. We wish the brush holders were tighter because the brushes we stored in there kept falling out.?
Organic makes one of the most popular chalk buckets on the market, and it’s easy to see why. Its simple design keeps your chalk contained and upright on the mats and you can even customize it to have some personal flair.?
“Beta Labs is a small company started by the most passionate and kind-hearted people I know: Craig and Austin Hoyt. Their mission is to provide top-quality gear for climbers at highly affordable prices,” Schreiber says. “For the value and quality of the product, it is unbeatable … I also dare you to find a chalk pot that is completely waterproof, can hold your phone and other items, and stands flat on nearly any surface.”
The Mojo Zip is a classic chalk bag and one of Traversi’s go-to products. It features a cinching cord-lock to keep chalk inside and a zippered pocket for extras like your keys. Pick from six colors, from vermillion to pewter.
This lightweight chalk bag is the perfect companion for rope climbing. It keeps your chalk secure and is just big enough to fit your hand inside to re-chalk mid-route.?
If you need the cheap basics, opt for the Metolius Chalk Bag. It’s nothing special, but it does the job, and if that’s all you need, you can save a few bucks.?
Harnesses
If you plan to get on ropes, both you and your climbing partner will need harnesses. Beginners shouldn’t focus on ultra-lightweight designs or extra features like gear loops and ice clipper slots. Just look for something that’s affordable and comfortable.
Cheap, comfortable and plenty light, the Black Diamond Momentum is one of the only harnesses we’ve regularly used over the past two years. It’s an especially good deal if you buy it as part of the Momentum Harness Package, which comes with an ATC belay device, locking carabiner, chalk and a chalk bag for $100.
“I exclusively use Petzl harnesses,” Schreiber says. “They make the lightest, most comfortable and safest harnesses. They’re an unbeatably trustworthy brand that has stood the test of time and delivers high-quality products.” One of our testers has used this harness for almost a year and loves its comfort and versatility.?
“For harnesses, you need to make sure it fits and is comfortable to sit in since you'll be hanging in the harness a lot over the years,” Capps says. “For me, the Arc'teryx harnesses fit my waist and legs very well, and are super adjustable for wearing different layers of clothing while climbing.”
Belay devices
You need harnesses to rope climb, but you’ll also need a belay device. Most gyms will rent out belay devices, but the cost depends on the gym. If you want your own, we recommend getting one as part of a package like Black Diamond’s Momentum Harness Package.
There are a couple of different types of belay devices out there, with the main two being an ATC and a GriGri. The ATC is simpler but doesn’t give the belayer much assistance, while the GriGri has a locking mechanism that helps belayers catch falls.
The ATC-XP is one of the simplest belay devices, using friction to stop falls and lower the climber. Gyms oftenstimes make you pass their belay tests using an ATC, so it’s worth learning how to use it. This package comes with the belay device and the necessary locking carabiner.
This assisted belay device makes climbing a tad safer, as it features a locking cam that catches a fast-moving rope. So even if a rock knocks out a belayer, there’s a chance the GriGri could still catch the rope before the climber decks (read: hits the ground). While the classic GriGri is ubiquitous at gyms and crags, the GriGri+ is the best assisted belay device for new climbers, thanks to an “anti-panic” mode that ensures the belayer lowers the climber safely.
Mammut’s Smart 2.0 belay device is kind of in between an ATC and a GriGri. Its design helps belayers catch falls better than an ATC but not as well as a GriGri. Plus, this package comes with a locking carabiner that prevents any twisting or cross-loading.?You can also purchase the belay device only and get a separate locking carabiner.
Whether you buy an ATC or GriGri, you’ll need a locking carabiner. We like this one because it locks automatically, lowering the chance of accidents.
Helmets
Unlike a rope, a harness and a locking carabiner, helmets are optional and many climbers forgo the extra protection. But in our experience, they really aren’t that uncomfortable — and they could save your life. So protect your noggin from bad falls and choss (aka loose rock) outdoors with these entry-level climbing helmets.
When you climb outside, you never know when you’ll take a whipper into a jagged wall or a rock might fall. That’s why you should always wear a helmet if you top-rope or sport climb outside. It may not be cool or sexy but neither are debilitating head injuries. One of our favorites is the Petzl Boreo, which won’t break the bank and comes in four colors.
While we haven’t been able to test Mammut’s Skywalker for as long as the Boreo, it’s similar in almost every way, boasting a hard shell and a dual foam liner. We picked it up in Orange, though you’ve got five other colors to choose from.
This helmet is lightweight, comfortable and just what you need for a fun day at the crag. After testing it for about a month, we love how comfy it is and its included headlamp clips, which would be incredibly useful if you get caught climbing in the dark.?
Other climbing essentials
All you need to climb is a pair of shoes and chalk, but these extras will make the experience far more pleasant.
This is a simple, well-made duffel bag with the bonus of a removable rope tarp. We fill it with climbing shoes, harnesses and belay devices, and it’s still got extra room.
If you want to go bouldering outside, you'll need a crash pad to protect your falls. We tested and absolutely loved this one from Black Diamond, as it's on the cheaper side (and also quite portable). It's not very big, but it's a great first crash pad to get out there.
Some gyms require you to bring your own rope if you want to lead climb, and you'll obviously need one if you want to top-rope or sport climb outdoors. We're especially fond of Mammut's Crag Dry Rope, which is treated to be weather-resistant so it can stand up to the elements.
You don’t need special pants or shorts to climb, though we like the Notions from Black Diamond. They’re stretchy enough to wear climbing but look like regular, stylish shorts. Keep in mind that they run slightly small.
These jeans are an investment, but they’re the best climbing pants one of our testers has ever worn. He has two pairs, one of which is still kicking after getting covered in paint and bleach from working at a rock climbing gym more than four years ago. The jeans are insanely stretchy and comfortable, repel chalk better than most clothes and look good enough to wear around town too. The biggest downside is they’re often sold out, so if you can find your size, you should snag a pair.?
Climbing shoes are uncomfortable, and you’re not supposed to wear them in the gym bathroom, so it’s common to slip them on and off. Rather than going barefoot (gross), you can slip into Crocs, which also double as sauna/shower shoes.
These clogs have been gaining massive popularity with outdoorsy folks in the past year or so. They’re ultra comfortable, more stylish than Crocs and have a super-grippy Vibram sole so you can even wear them while hiking to the crag.?
Your hands and fingers can get beat up when climbing, especially when your skin isn’t used to it. If you start getting sore spots or rips and want to keep climbing, you’ll need a roll of tape handy to protect yourself.?
Brushes aren't essential, but they sure can help if you’re trying a popular problem in the gym and its holds are getting slimy from all the chalk and sweat buildup. Brushes can also come in handy when climbing outside if you need to clear dirt and debris from the holds. This simple brush is cheap and effective, and good enough for cleaning up beginner climbs.?
If you like to learn by reading, check out this book, which is essentially a textbook that covers everything you need to know to climb outdoors. It’s full of detailed descriptions and diagrams so you can practice at home before you venture out to the crag.?
